401(k) and IRA 101 (Investing Basics 3/3, Retirement Basics 1/2)


Meet Bob. Bob is a newly employed college graduate with
the urge to invest. Bob just finished our two videos “Why Invest”
and “How to Invest,” so he understands how he can easily and effectively invest his
money through a robo-advisor. While Bob is proud of this newfound knowledge,
one obstacle remains in his path: alphabet soup. Everyday, Bob is confronted by a terrifying
array of terms: 401(k), IRA, the list goes on and on. Luckily for Bob, we have him covered. Let’s start with most basic: 401(k)s and
403(b)s. These are tax-advantaged investment accounts,
designed for retirement, and offered by either a for-profit employer, in the case of a 401(k),
or a nonprofit or government employer, in the case of 403(b). In either case, both accounts are virtually
identical, and come in two forms, Traditional and Roth. So what’s the difference? Well, with a Traditional 401(k), the money
you put in is pre-tax, and then only taxed when withdrawn at retirement, while with a
Roth 401(k) it’s the opposite. So which one should you choose? Well, as the math turns out, Roth 401(k)s
are perfect for most people, especially for those in a low to moderate tax bracket, like
25% or below. In contrast, traditional 401(k)s are generally
better for those in a higher bracket. In either case, your employer may match your
contributions up to a certain amount, like 5% of your total salary. Sounds pretty great right? After all, free money and tax-advantaged growth,
what’s not to love? Well, a few things. One: As of 2016, your contributions are limited
to up $18,000 per year. Two: Not only will your employer restrict
you to a specified list of funds, you’ll also have to pick them yourself, which can
be a real challenge. However, you can avoid this, either by using
our recommended robo-advisor to manage your 401(k), or by manually selecting what’s
called a life-cycle or target-date fund, which operates much like the robo-advisors we described
in our previous video, just with less flexibility and personalization. Three (and here’s the real kicker): you
generally can’t cash out of your current 401(k) unless you meet a hardship exemption,
like excessive medical expenses. Plus, even if you do meet them, you’ll still
generally have to pay a 10% penalty, plus taxes, on money withdrawn before age 59 and
a half. So that’s 401(k)s. Let’s move onto the next account, IRAs. IRAs come in the same two forms as 401(k)s,
Traditional and Roth, and for the most part, they have the same tax advantages, withdrawal
rules and selection criteria: Roth favors those in low to moderate tax brackets, like
25% or below, while Traditional favors those in higher ones. However, there’s a few differences between
IRAs and 401(k)s to be aware of. One: Your contributions to an IRA are more
limited, currently only $5,500 per year across both Traditional and Roth accounts. Two: You’re barred from contributing to
a Roth IRA at certain high income thresholds. Three: If you’re a small-business owner
or freelancer, you can also open a SEP IRA, which operates like a traditional IRA, just
with a much higher contribution limit. Four: Unlike a 401(k), almost every brokerage
firm, including robo-advisors, will allow you to open an IRA and select whatever fund
you want. This is incredibly useful, especially if your
401(k) has costly or undesirable options. Plus, withdrawing money is also easier in
an IRA, as you don’t need a hardship exemption, though, if you’re below age 59 and half,
you’ll still have to pay the 10% fee and taxes. So that’s IRAs. So how do you choose between them and a 401(k)? Well, we have simple rule of thumb. First contribute to your 401(k) until you’ve
hit maximum matching, then max out your IRA, and then finally, return to max out your 401(k). Of course, for most people this is unrealistic,
especially considering we only recommend you invest 10-15% of your paycheck for retirement. However, for educational purposes, let’s
say you’ve maxed out both. What do you do then? Well, you can then put the remainder of your
investing money into a taxable investment account offered by any brokerage firm, including
robo-advisors. While these accounts lack tax advantages,
they also have zero limitations on contribution size and withdrawals, making them a great
home for the rest of your money. Finally, a bit of house-keeping. Whenever you change jobs, you start a new
401(k) with your new employer and leave the old one behind. Whatever you do, don’t cash out of the old
one. Instead, roll it over into a matching Traditional
or Roth IRA. This will allow you to consolidate your funds
and lower your fees, while avoiding any tax or withdraw penalties. And don’t worry, robo-advisors make this
process a breeze. Congratulations! You have finished the investment basics curriculum! If you want to see great robo-advisors or
stockbrokers, or just more educational content, be sure to check out our website.

14 Replies to “401(k) and IRA 101 (Investing Basics 3/3, Retirement Basics 1/2)

  1. People rarely factor in state income taxes. If you live in a high-income-tax state, and plan to retire to a zero-income-tax state, then a Roth account makes little sense.

  2. Bob wants to invest after college.
    I have been saving since 4th grade and investing since 10th grade.

  3. I don't understand how to manage an IRA. I was just on the phone with the investment firm and I guess he was saying that I need to manage my Roth IRA just like I would manage trading stocks on Wall street. What is the best investment option for those who don't have any stock trading ability?

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